Updating to rc30 Free online nude cam

Fortunately for me, Bruce was one of NZ's finest 2-stroke racers and F2 champion, so he got the clutch in within milliseconds of feeling the tugging associated with little or no oil pressure, so no real damage.All these years later, I've finally made a bulletproof bracket for the oilpipes - necessitated by having the VF1000F oil pump with its provision for an external oil cooler, and the HRC deep sump which has no support for the two cooler crossover pipes.While cleaning the crankcase upper for reassembly, I noticed for the first time a big gark in the bore, quite a nasty wound like something took a chip out of it 40mm down. Subsequent study of the piston reveals that clearly there was a few ccs of water sitting on it for some or all of time the bike was off the road, garaged and intact - condensation, head gasket leak, I don't really care what caused it, I'm too busy being sick...

updating to rc30-47updating to rc30-86

The RC30 is together, but I'm scared to run it because I haven't checked the clearance between gear stack and crank yet after the deck milling and while I wasn't originally worried, now that it's time to actually run it I'm terrified. My rods have all been resized and are now all USELESS. The first is the Falcon is gone, sold, ditched meaning I now have a bike garage thank god!

Time to remove the gears and properly plastigauge the clearance I think. Not a happy chappie, I now have to source some rods (my friend Dale just offered me a set the same day at a very good price, thank god) and rebuild the motor again. The second is that I bought a set of brand new factory fresh RC30 titanium conrods from a place in the UK for 60 quid each!!!

I had bottom tapped all the holes, and the torque wrench was good. So it's hanging in the frame and I'm trying to work out how the wiring goes, and get my Moriwaki pipe and radiators back off a friend. The good news is that after all these months while the poor bugger was waiting for me to assemble the RC30 (haahaahahahaaaa) we agreed a price and I bought the RC51 outright, so now have both bikes.

Thank god, I couldn't go through with losing the RC30. Although if I really cared about it, I'd finish it. Biggest problem is a project car (huge Falcon) stuffed in a single garage with the bike down the side of it. But the flat is designed so that if I push the car out I cover the landlord's garage door. I swear, useless as I am, that if I get a decent garage and some space I'll finish it all. It rocks, I'd never used it before but it's full of RC51 parts and I've bought lots of them, all on their way.

I've now started reassembling the motor and have fitted the completed crankcases into the frame and bolted the rear head on. Anyway the motor is still together but I've got to remove the cam gears and put a pin in the bottom quietening gear so I can veryify that the clearance between the bottom gear and the crank gear is okay, not sure how to actually measure it but at the moment it feels aweful to turn and I think it's just the preloaded quietening gear.

Nearly every night that I've been for home over the last couple of weeks I've done a bit more and it should be running in a couple of weeks. The reason I'm paranoid is the small amount of decking done on the block, which will have lowered the entire gear train slightly.

I got it from a cheese ad here in New Zealand and am starting to seriously question whether it makes any sense at all.

Anyway when I collected the crankcases and measured it all up, they'd got it really close, within about 0.001 inch of the other bank based on piston depths at 4 points per piston averaged, with each at bdc confirmed by dial gauge.

Wrong again, in the US all VTRs are called RC51s, crazy but true.

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